Through the generosity of Kids Across Africa, I was able to go see the famous Silverback Gorillas! It was amazing, but not without a little mud and sweat. In order to get to the Gorillas we first had to hike for about two hours up the side of a volcano/ mountain. It was no easy task. It was straight up and if you have not worked out very much, like myself, you definitely could feel it! So... we hiked and when we finally reached the top we were met up with the Gorilla trackers who stay near the Gorillas at all times to protect them against poachers and any other people who many want to hurt them.
We walked about a 100 yards in before we saw him! He was the daddy of them all and he let us know. He grunted at us and let us know that he was protecting his clan. All I could to do to not turn and run was grab on to my dear friend John Wilder. I think I might have even covered my mouth from letting anything come out as he walked within a few inches of my legs. If he wanted to bite me, grab me, or hurt me he could have and probably would have done it in a matter of seconds.
A few minutes passed before yet again he passed by us as he went back into the brush and back with his group. After he went back into the group we were able to get closer to the eighteen other gorillas, but before we did a curious little one year old baby pounced out to greet us. Once he saw that we were definitely not other gorillas he jetted back into the bushes.
When we finally reached the other gorillas it was a sight to see and they did not seem to mind at all that we were there. We saw one gorillas climbing a tree in hopes of claiming a good piece of bark for his mid-day lunch during what the guides called their "social hour." At times the gorilla would throw down a few pieces to the other eager gorillas below. At the bottom of the tree there were mommas and new born babies, mommas without babies, and lots of little one to three year old babies.
They all were sitting around eating almost anything they could get their hands on that was green. While we were diligently taking pictures, we would often witnessed a gorilla fight, literally. When one gorillas of higher status wanted something from another of lower status, the high status gorillas would just walk over and just take it right out of the hands of the gorillas. The lower status gorillas would grow and make awful noises out of protest.
After a few minutes of fighting they woulc calm down and continue eating. We also witnessed little babies wrestling. Often the older babies picking and pushing around the younger ones.... interestingly enough just like humans.
Who would have thought?! Overall, it was a great experience even though at one point I really thought the main male silverback was going to eat me or at least take part of me with him. It was just an amazing experience. Thank you Kids Across Africa!
Friday, August 01, 2008
The House Next Door.
We have lived in our house for about seven months now and have lived next to a huge abandoned house. The house, according to locals, was abandoned by a Belgium business man right when the genocide began. Currently the house is still unfinished, is falling apart, and has bullet holes all over its exterior. It is some times hard to look at it because it is a sure sign of what life was like during the genocide and most international workers response to the beginning of the war. So many people just picked up and left. In the movie, Shaking Hands with the Devil, you see exactly that. You see many, many white people and upper class Rwandans pushing, shoving, and hurrying to get on the last few planes out of Rwanda. It is so sad to see because people who do not necessarily fit that description also try to get on the planes, but you see militia push them away and deny their right of passage away from the all the fighting and killing. So, this house just reminds me of the genocide. It also reminds me European wealth because it is this large, expensive house amongst more modest houses. When I would tell people about the house they would often ask if anyone lived in it even though it is unfinished. Based on what I know, I would always tell them that people do live there. I often see people going in and out of the unlocked, vacant gate. Also, at times we even see people upstairs during the day. I was told that the homeless and those who need a space to work often reside there during the day. To me this house was a sign of the past like I said, but also just emptiness, death, and abandonment. That was until the other day when I was laying in my bed. As I lay there in silence people began to sing. From where, I had no clue, but it sounded like it was coming from the abandoned house. Then I began to hear drums and the sounds of people dancing. I just layed there thing this may just be a one day event and then quickly drifted off to sleep. Then the following day I came home from town. As I walked up my steps I began to hear the same familiar singing from the day before. It was joy to my ears. It was beautiful and a reminder of life in Rwanda. So, instead of walking into my house and occupying myself with what I should clean up in my house or eat from the pantry, I walked out my gate and in the direction of the abandoned house. The gate was wide open and there were people sitting on top of the fence around the house. They waved at me and welcomed me in. As I walked in people began to smile and sign louder. As I took steps onto the driveway and closer to what was going on children began running over to me and of course yelling Muzungu, Muzungu! As I looked up I saw about thirty Rwandan women of all sizes and ages just signing, dancing, and practicing their traditional Rwandan dance. It almost brought tears to my eyes. Not only was I welcomed into a place that has for so long been a sign of death and abandonment, but I saw one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my time in Rwanda. I saw women just being women. Just praising the Lord. Just having fun and loving on each other. It made me proud to be a woman. It also made me proud to be living in Rwanda. It brought hope to me as I looked at how a group of women could take this place and transform it into a place of meeting. It was just so beautiful...
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